It’s here! … the ATN X Sight 4K, and at the time of writing we are the first and only retailer to have taken delivery of the new units. I won’t go into the whole specification list as this is available on our link to the product, also I think this should be an operating and performance comparison against the X Sight 2 HD model. A quick look reveals the sight comes with mounts, batteries for the IR, a neoprene scope cover and a much more comprehensive set of instructions than the old X Sight 2 HD model. The first improvement is that the 4K comes with generous “scope like.” Eye relief; the rubber eyecup that excludes all unwanted external light Is now a screw in fit preventing its loss when things become a bit rowdy. The sight seems to power up quickly with a much superior sharp daytime image that doesn’t degrade as the zoom is increased unlike the XS2HD. I took this footage of two roe deer on dusk at a distance of almost 300 yards, zooming up from about 12x to 20x, as you can see the definition is superb, you can clearly see that the deer are both does and can judge the condition of the deer, bearing in mind I was holding the 4K freehand (hence the wobble) it would have been much steadier on a rifle and from a rest where a shot at this distance would have been entirely feasible. Likewise, the night image is clear and sharp with no lag and superior definition; see this video clip took at night with no IR! A couple of observations at an early stage, if you insert the SD card then push home the rubber grommet cover you can inadvertently eject the SD card.The site comes with the latest firmware version pre-installed v218 (last 3 digits) when you open the box the first thing that the instructions on the underside of the lid tell you to do is update the firmware. However the latest firmware version on the ATN site is v185, not v218, so don’t do this until a firmware update with a version number greater than 218 is available unless you want to go backwards! In all the image quality both day and night is superb! … let us hope that no bugs surface or if they do ATN resolve them quickly!! I haven’t had the change to mount it on a rifle and take it out after foxes yet but will update you as I progress with it. via Bradford Stalker Hunting Shop: Latest News https://bradfordstalker.co.uk/blog/atn-x-sight-4k-is-here/
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Thermal, it’s here to stay so let’s have a look at it!. Follow this link for a look at the Quantum Lite XQ30V a top performer for a budget price with a 384 sensor and a 12.4 degree FOV at 2.5x mag with a detection range on deer of 600 metres. Also look at the spare IPS5 battery pack with a life of 8 hours for the Hellion models and the Pulsar DNV double battery pack for the Quantum models. via Bradford Stalker Hunting Shop: Latest News https://bradfordstalker.co.uk/blog/choosing-a-thermal-imaging-spotter/ Why clean a centre fire rifle? The barrel of a centre fire rifle needs cleaning to prolong life and maintain accuracy. We often hear of the old school line of thought that you should “never clean a rifle barrel”, I have seen rifle bores shot out, corroded and eroded in less than a year by this practice resulting in a total loss of the rifles ability to shoot a decent group, by a “decent group” I mean 1” (or 1 MOA) at 100 yards. All factory produced rifles should be capable of producing this out of the box. What happens inside a rifle bore? On firing a bullet, the bullet leaves copper fouling from the jacket and both burnt and un burnt powder residue on the lands and valleys of the rifling, every subsequent bullet that travels up the bore firstly presses the fouling from the previous bullet into the bore as well as laying down its own fouling to be in turn pressed in again by the next bullet, and so on. Every 8 rounds (approximately) releases a teaspoon of water, water partials mix with the gasses from the burnt propellant to form ammonia, if left this gathers underneath the fouling, eating into the metal and causing pitting and further stripping of the copper from each bullet, a bullet scarred from travelling up a rough bore is destabilised as it leaves the muzzle due to propellant gas venting unevenly and so causing loss of accuracy. The speed of the process is greatly accelerated by leaving a sound moderator on the rifle and putting it in the cabinet after shooting, so even if you do not clean your rifle after use it then ALWAYS, ALWAYS remove the moderator. The following process is what I have found to work best, others have their preferred methods, this one is mine, I have used this method to restore rifles previously thought “shot out” it works! Let’s assume we are cleaning a rifle that has gone without cleaning for 20 rounds+ for a thorough clean… 1. Run through a phosphor bronze brush from the breech to the muzzle a few times soaked in Tetra Concentrated Powder and Light Fouling Remover followed by a dry patch. This leaves the bore in a raw state ready for the copper solvent. 2. Use a jag or a wool mop soaked in Tetra Gun Copper Solvent, run it through the bore twice from the breech to the muzzle and allow to soak for 30 minutes to an hour, run through a dry patch on a jag, any blue hue on the patch indicates the presence of copper so repeat as necessary until the dry patch comes out clean. As an alternative to this I sometimes prefer to use Forest Foam (Mill Foam) this is similar to shaving foam in that it is injected into the bore through a tube on the can, the foam is expanding and fills up the barrel, the Mill Foam tends to be less harsh on the bore as it does not contain ammonia. Note do not use a phosphor bronze brush with these two products as they will dissolve the bristles. 3. After the last dry, white clean patch run through another patch or wool mop with a light coating of Tetra Penetrating lubricant and Bore Conditioner. 4. Run through a dry patch before shooting, as long as the bore is dry you will preserve your zero. Once you have a clean bore you can keep it that way by using Forest Foam (Mill Foam) after several shots or after each outing, one application is all that will be needed without any harsh cleaning or abrasive brushes, a bore in good condition is easier to keep clean, picks up less copper fouling and is more accurate. Always remember to push the rod through from the breech end to the muzzle to avoid damaging the crown, if the crown is damaged this will severely affect accuracy. via Bradford Stalker Hunting Shop: Latest News https://bradfordstalker.co.uk/blog/how-to-clean-a-centre-fire-rifle/ |